I didn't realize how out of shape I was , until I treked to the top of Sarangkot, the famous hill by Phewa Lake, yes the very one from which my jump-off that same morning ended in the demise (or fertilization?) of many a villagers' crops.
In the morning I was carted up in a jeep along a paved, winding road, and the view of the Annapurna range was so ball numbing that I got it in my fancy little head I was going to hike up there again in the afternoon and catch the sunset. So I made a housecall to Chris, the kind local who picked me up the first day from the Pokhara bus station. His family owns a restaurant in Lakeside and he's had a lot of free time lately to loaft around it thanks to the Maoists. He wrote his last exam for his commerce degree ten months ago and still hasn't received his diploma because of striking teacher unions, student unions, janitor unions, and just about any other Association of Nonsense you can imagine. As the government sits on its gold-plated pillow cushions getting peeled grapes fed up its every crevice, thousands of students are in graduation limbo, unable to work without a certificate, and unable to continue studies for the same reason.
But I digress. So Chris has kindly offered to accompany me on my trek next week as well, but first we were warming up with the measly Sarangkot, at a mere 1500m compared to the surrounding 8000m peaks (did you know Nepal holds a virtual monopoly on the world's highest peaks with 8 of the 10 within its borders?). Instead of walking up the freshly paved road, he elected to take me up a shortcut. Translate: a 45 degree steep "stairway", each step being a uneven rockslab about 10 inches in height. Now I think I have the shortest legs humanly possible next to a war amp (yes, lightning strike me now.) and I was literally left trailing in the dust in the wake of Chris'(at over 6 feet tall) freakish antelope gams. I made us stop fifty times, each time pretending to tie another lace on my elasticized running shoes and snapping more photos than was necessary at every clearing. I was like a fat kid with asthma running in a marathon without his puffer. Only I didn't have asthma, nor was I running a marathon. I was just a fat kid.
When we finally got to the top, within the standard 2.5 hours thank you very much, the clouds had shifted over to strategically cover all of the mountains as well as the sunset. Yipee.
Oh yea, and we planned to take the bus back down, but the busses decided not to run that day- I told you the country was random- so we stood at the top with the daunting question of how to get down. It was about 5pm and the sun would set in half an hour. If we went back the way we came, we'd be stuck in the pitchblack depth of the forests when the sun set. If we took the main road, we'd have some stars and city lights to guide us but the slowly winding road would take an hour more than the shortcut. Finally with no other option, we walked down the road, and I just about collapsed into my wooden crate that night.
In the interest of building some more stamina for my trek in a few days, I made Santosh trek with me up another hill the next day. This was on the west side of Pokhara, with the famous World Peace Pagoda on top. This was a shorter climb at 1.5 hours but with no less of a breathtaking view from the top. The temple was aptly named. I've never felt so at peace at any meditative site. It was like a washing over of serenity, with the sun shining on the stark white pagoda, a great golden Buddha glistened at the top of a flight of snow white stairs. Sigh. Pictures to follow.
Yesterday was yet another holiday for the Nepali. A day of family akin to the celebration of Chinese New Year. At 5am, Sabina, Sujeena, one of the older kids, and I crawled out of bed and hiked up to Sarangkot to catch the sunrise. But of course, the clouds covered both the sun and the mountains with such zeal, I couldn't even be upset. I did snap a few shots of the mountains during fleeting periods of visibility. I still get awe-struck everytime I look up at the Annapurnas. I absolutely can't get over their grandiose splendour, and the clouds cover them so well every day that when the sky is clear I gasp and immediately scramble to get my zoom lens. They are just that awesome. Anyway, when we walked past a few houses we saw a flock of kids scrambling up the hill with ten of fifteen chickens in tow. Word on the hill was a truck driver carrying a load of 350 chickens plunged off the side of the road last night and landed in the midst of dense forest below. The neighbourhood was giddy with glee, each household sending its most nimble boys to scavenge lost chickens. Um, what about the truck driver? I asked, horrified. Oh, they found him hanging on a tree and took him to the hospital. Lol, well then feast on.
Later in the morning we were all invited to Sabina's aunt's house down the street for lunch and afternoon tea. They warned me her aunt was a good cook, but I was not prepared for the foodgasm that awaited me. I know that Nepali cuisine is known for lacking in variety and imagination, but this would have put a smile on even the most unforgiving food critics. We feasted on the finest Dhal Bhat I've ever had, vegetable curry, deep fried boiled eggs, spinach puree, and amazing tomato chutney I now have the recipe for, and gasp, mutton and chicken! HUMMANA HUMMANA It was the first time I've had meat since I left Canada and after the fourth helping I was getting ready for angioplasty. After lunch, Sabina took me to the hairdresser as I needed a trim. It cost 40 rupees. The exchange rate is 75 rupees to the dollar. I was in tress-shearing heaven. I recalle the last time I paid for a cut in San Fran, and it had cost me a hundred dollars, more than the average monthly salary of a Nepali, and I don't even go to salons regularly. That was one of the first times after cutting my own hair for the last seven years. Talk about purchasing power parity.
In other news, I have achieved a strange sort of celebrity status, D-list to be sure, in the community and beyond. A troop of neighbourhood boys somehow found out my name and everytime I walk down the street or play tag with the kids I'm met with my own personal cheer squad of twenty-something year old Nepali boys. Santosh told me it is because they are enraptured by my "Mongol face". It was annoying at first but now is just comical. lol mongol face, what?
It's New Years Eve here and I'm taking the kids to Phewa Lake tonight for a street festival by Lakeside. I will now wish a happy new year, onto you and your kin, and share the most hauntingly beautiful rendition of Auld Lang Syne. Mad SATC braps for this one. Enjoy.
xo
12.31.2008
12.27.2008
flying high
So they told me not to eat before paragliding I probably should have listened.
Today was a beautiful day for flying, blue skies, bright sun and bits of white fluffy clouds here and there. I headed up Sarangkot hill on a jeep with the pilots for my tandem flight this morning at 9.30. Was supposed to go yesterday and came to Lakeside for a day off from the kids. But it was cloudy and I loafted by Phewa lake all afternoon waiting for the clouds to clear, and stayed the night in a guest house.
Paragliding is insane. I was brought up to a landing at the top of a hill, got strapped and harnessed to a pilot, and instructed to literally run off the side of the hill into the depths of the forests below. I was fearless in the jeep going up but when told to run off a cliff I definitely got a little queazy. Once we jumped off, we were immediately lifted up by strong winds into the sky and I was able to lift up my legs and sit on a nice little seat I was harnessed to. The vantage point was spectacular, there were eagles flying circles around us and I looked down on the lake and across to the Annapurna ranges just like one of them. It was freezing though, and a bit turbulent, with the pilot pulling unexpected turns and after about ten minutes I was definitely feeling my breakfast coming up lol. I toughed it out until almost the end, and then.. the poor villagers, I feel badly for them. They get a shower of people's meals three times a day. lol sorry if you're grossed out, it is what it is. hah an omlette to be exact.
Anyways, now that you're all hungry for more, lets talk about Christmas. The kids and I had a great time! The kids went to bed on Christmas eve, vowing to wake up at 1 am to catch Santa in the act. I cannot tell you how many times they asked me, "Didi, Santa will come yes?" and the older ones narrowing their eyes suspiciously at me "Didi, I think YOU are Santa, yes?" When they got up in the morning, dismayed that they did not wake up to see him, they rushed up to the roof and shouted with glee to discover packages with their names on them.
I fed them so much nutella, cookies, jelly beans, and chocolate they all felt sick after. Lol, excess or nothing right? Yup that's my motto. We opened presents, and read eachother's warm fuzzies. I got one with Sujeena, one of the older kids. "Jenny Didi, I like you because: 1. You are cute. Your hair is nice. 2. You are kind to everyone 3. You help others in need." It was touching. I've felt that this was one big family so far, at times questioning if the kids even realize their unique disposition in life, without the basic tenets of life that we all take for granted; the love of a mother and father. The note reminded me that they are quite aware. And just because they are seemingly oblivious in the simple joys they take in everyday life, does not mean they are blissfully ignorant. They are just that much more appreciative.
We were blessed with gorgeous weather on Christmas day and packed up a massive meal of pasta I cooked up for a picnic at Mahendrapul Cave nearby. It was my first experience cooking for an army. A small army of nine but oh can they ever eat. Its funny that when I was at home, I was all big on the lo-carb diet, defying my motherland in refusing rice at every meal. Here all I eat is rice and potatoes, three times a day, and yet I'm thinner than I ever was in Canada.
At night we watched Inside Man on the movie network until the power cut at around 9. Here in Nepal, the government rules that the power must be cut for a set amount of time every week, divided into four hour increments throughout the day, varying from region to region. What is ironic is that Nepal is the home to the world's second largest quantity of hydro electric resources, but simply has no infrastructure to collect it and transform it into actual power. The resulting power shortage coupled with political instability means that the citizens suffer. When I first arrived in Kathmandu, it was 8 hours a day of mandatory powercuts. By the second week, it was 10. Starting tomorrow it will be 12 hours. TWELVE HOURS! Oh and the government also likes to declare holidays on a whim, printing the date in the national newspaper, sometimes with just one week notice. Now that I wouldn't mind so much.
Here are some of the pictures from Christmas and my paragdliding adventure. Am trying to upload the video on youtube but its not working :(
Kalpana, 8, the tomboy of the bunch! love her.
Usha, 8, she's just a darling, the most affectionate one.
He really is like a monkey!
The rest of them are camera shy so I dont have too many of them. Here's a group shot
There was a batcave. Ohgod they looked like upside down rats with wings.
Phewa lake at sunset
In the air!
Birds eye view
Today was a beautiful day for flying, blue skies, bright sun and bits of white fluffy clouds here and there. I headed up Sarangkot hill on a jeep with the pilots for my tandem flight this morning at 9.30. Was supposed to go yesterday and came to Lakeside for a day off from the kids. But it was cloudy and I loafted by Phewa lake all afternoon waiting for the clouds to clear, and stayed the night in a guest house.
Paragliding is insane. I was brought up to a landing at the top of a hill, got strapped and harnessed to a pilot, and instructed to literally run off the side of the hill into the depths of the forests below. I was fearless in the jeep going up but when told to run off a cliff I definitely got a little queazy. Once we jumped off, we were immediately lifted up by strong winds into the sky and I was able to lift up my legs and sit on a nice little seat I was harnessed to. The vantage point was spectacular, there were eagles flying circles around us and I looked down on the lake and across to the Annapurna ranges just like one of them. It was freezing though, and a bit turbulent, with the pilot pulling unexpected turns and after about ten minutes I was definitely feeling my breakfast coming up lol. I toughed it out until almost the end, and then.. the poor villagers, I feel badly for them. They get a shower of people's meals three times a day. lol sorry if you're grossed out, it is what it is. hah an omlette to be exact.
Anyways, now that you're all hungry for more, lets talk about Christmas. The kids and I had a great time! The kids went to bed on Christmas eve, vowing to wake up at 1 am to catch Santa in the act. I cannot tell you how many times they asked me, "Didi, Santa will come yes?" and the older ones narrowing their eyes suspiciously at me "Didi, I think YOU are Santa, yes?" When they got up in the morning, dismayed that they did not wake up to see him, they rushed up to the roof and shouted with glee to discover packages with their names on them.
I fed them so much nutella, cookies, jelly beans, and chocolate they all felt sick after. Lol, excess or nothing right? Yup that's my motto. We opened presents, and read eachother's warm fuzzies. I got one with Sujeena, one of the older kids. "Jenny Didi, I like you because: 1. You are cute. Your hair is nice. 2. You are kind to everyone 3. You help others in need." It was touching. I've felt that this was one big family so far, at times questioning if the kids even realize their unique disposition in life, without the basic tenets of life that we all take for granted; the love of a mother and father. The note reminded me that they are quite aware. And just because they are seemingly oblivious in the simple joys they take in everyday life, does not mean they are blissfully ignorant. They are just that much more appreciative.
We were blessed with gorgeous weather on Christmas day and packed up a massive meal of pasta I cooked up for a picnic at Mahendrapul Cave nearby. It was my first experience cooking for an army. A small army of nine but oh can they ever eat. Its funny that when I was at home, I was all big on the lo-carb diet, defying my motherland in refusing rice at every meal. Here all I eat is rice and potatoes, three times a day, and yet I'm thinner than I ever was in Canada.
At night we watched Inside Man on the movie network until the power cut at around 9. Here in Nepal, the government rules that the power must be cut for a set amount of time every week, divided into four hour increments throughout the day, varying from region to region. What is ironic is that Nepal is the home to the world's second largest quantity of hydro electric resources, but simply has no infrastructure to collect it and transform it into actual power. The resulting power shortage coupled with political instability means that the citizens suffer. When I first arrived in Kathmandu, it was 8 hours a day of mandatory powercuts. By the second week, it was 10. Starting tomorrow it will be 12 hours. TWELVE HOURS! Oh and the government also likes to declare holidays on a whim, printing the date in the national newspaper, sometimes with just one week notice. Now that I wouldn't mind so much.
Here are some of the pictures from Christmas and my paragdliding adventure. Am trying to upload the video on youtube but its not working :(
Kalpana, 8, the tomboy of the bunch! love her.
Usha, 8, she's just a darling, the most affectionate one.
He really is like a monkey!
The rest of them are camera shy so I dont have too many of them. Here's a group shot
There was a batcave. Ohgod they looked like upside down rats with wings.
Phewa lake at sunset
In the air!
Birds eye view
12.24.2008
Merry Christmas
I'm about twelve hours ahead of you guys, but its Christmas Eve here so I want to wish everyone a very happy holiday, hopefully spent with loved ones :)
I've had the longest day, running around Pokhara like a madwoman, preparing for tomorrow's festivities. I am making Christmas breakfast and lunch tomorrow, so went to the supermarket and bought a feast of foods the kids don't normally eat. Bread with nutella in the morning, mango juice, coloured bowtie pasta, cookies, and candies, all imported goodness for which I have to apologize to the locavore in me. Just once a year! They eat all local and seasonal food the rest of the time... this will be an exception.
Oh, then the worst thing possible happened to me... I took my compact flash card from my Nikon D70 to a studio to be developed. The guy inserted the card into his computer for me to point out the pictures I want, but failed to tell me there was a virus on his computer. It shut down halfway through, and started dumping its contents, whatever that means. I didn't think anything of it, the computer restarted, and we waited for the card to load again. You probably already figured it out by now, the virus killed my memory card. At the time I thought it was just his computer that was messed, but when I brought it home to put in my camera again, it no longer read it. I lost more than 900 photos from the last month, the only memories of which are left are on this blog. But worse, all the portraits of the kids were gone! My pictures mean everything to me, so you can imagine my distress. I sat in my room for quite a while, just thinking. I keep telling myself it could be worse. I could have lost more memories if this happened later, at least my camera is ok, by the laws of probability, this probbbably won't happen again to me, so I learn my lesson to never take a memory card to sketchy third world photo studios.
No use crying over spilled milk, so I went back out to the market, bought a new card for an exorbitant price, and resolved to take the portraits again when they come home from school today and rush it back to a more legit studio tonight to print. Fingers crossed!
I got them a few play things as well, and combined with their secret santa warm fuzzies tomorrow should be good. I read a couple of the notes, lol very funny. "Nawarj Bhai (big brother) I like you because you are very fat but have very good behaviour." "Bikal, I like you because you look like monkey."
They are all off from school tomorrow so I think we'll wake up a little later, have some food, exchange gifts, and go on a day trip. There are a few temples of note around here, and a bat cave! I'm pretty excited...
I hope everyone has a fantastic time with your families, I hear its a White Christmas in Canada. Enjoy it!
I've had the longest day, running around Pokhara like a madwoman, preparing for tomorrow's festivities. I am making Christmas breakfast and lunch tomorrow, so went to the supermarket and bought a feast of foods the kids don't normally eat. Bread with nutella in the morning, mango juice, coloured bowtie pasta, cookies, and candies, all imported goodness for which I have to apologize to the locavore in me. Just once a year! They eat all local and seasonal food the rest of the time... this will be an exception.
Oh, then the worst thing possible happened to me... I took my compact flash card from my Nikon D70 to a studio to be developed. The guy inserted the card into his computer for me to point out the pictures I want, but failed to tell me there was a virus on his computer. It shut down halfway through, and started dumping its contents, whatever that means. I didn't think anything of it, the computer restarted, and we waited for the card to load again. You probably already figured it out by now, the virus killed my memory card. At the time I thought it was just his computer that was messed, but when I brought it home to put in my camera again, it no longer read it. I lost more than 900 photos from the last month, the only memories of which are left are on this blog. But worse, all the portraits of the kids were gone! My pictures mean everything to me, so you can imagine my distress. I sat in my room for quite a while, just thinking. I keep telling myself it could be worse. I could have lost more memories if this happened later, at least my camera is ok, by the laws of probability, this probbbably won't happen again to me, so I learn my lesson to never take a memory card to sketchy third world photo studios.
No use crying over spilled milk, so I went back out to the market, bought a new card for an exorbitant price, and resolved to take the portraits again when they come home from school today and rush it back to a more legit studio tonight to print. Fingers crossed!
I got them a few play things as well, and combined with their secret santa warm fuzzies tomorrow should be good. I read a couple of the notes, lol very funny. "Nawarj Bhai (big brother) I like you because you are very fat but have very good behaviour." "Bikal, I like you because you look like monkey."
They are all off from school tomorrow so I think we'll wake up a little later, have some food, exchange gifts, and go on a day trip. There are a few temples of note around here, and a bat cave! I'm pretty excited...
I hope everyone has a fantastic time with your families, I hear its a White Christmas in Canada. Enjoy it!
12.22.2008
dhal dhal and more dhal
Its my second day in Pokhara and love the tropical weather. I can finally sleep at night without thoughts of self-mutilation to preserve bloodflow. And the children. The children!! There are six of them, ranging from about 6 to 12. They're such an energetic bunch, constantly vying for my attention, yelling "DIDI! Look at me! DIDI look what I can do!!" Didi means big sister in Nepali, and that took some getting used to. I ignored quite a few calls at first lol, but they're quite persistent.
They come up to me and touch my cheeks saying "red like apple!" Its funny that when I first got to Kathmandu I was still shaking off my fish belly white from the Canadian winter and walking down the street, I'd be met with stares and whispers of locals saying, "Japonaise.." But after a couple days in the afternoon sun my face is now burnt to a crisp (nose is still peeling happily), and I started getting so many comments that I looked Nepali, like the Sherpa people of the mountains. hah! unfortunately I still can't get a deal at the market.
The children are so blissfully happy. I can't tell you how many times they've embraced me, held my hand with affectionate urgency, proudly showed me a particular piece of artwork, and said, "Jenny Didi, I'm SOOoooo happy you come here today! You come back again?"
I started thinking about the transient experience of their childhood. So many volunteers coming in and out of their daily lives. It can't be good for them. They fondly tell me about Jasmine Didi two weeks ago, and how she is also from Canada, "Jenny Didi do you know Jas Didi? You are her sister? You and Jas Didi come back again ok?" It pains me as I put a carefully handwritten note into my pocket, promising to deliver the invitation to return to Jas Didi in Vancouver.
I couldn't help thinking that these opportunities for foreigners to come into this land, to laugh and play with these children, are of more benefit to us than them. I know I made them giggle out of control when I lifted them high and whizzed them through the air like flying superhumans, but I couldn't help feeling self serving, learning so much more about myself in this process than I ever dreamed. In two weeks time I will be gone, but they will still rise daily at 6.30, eat their breakfast of wheat paste, check over their notes before class, and walk down to the school holding hands.
Sabina, the president of the Chetan Children's Centre, and Santos, her nephew and treasurer of the organization are an inspiration. Sabina's husband started the orphanage five years ago after visiting a village where he fell in love with the kids. Two years ago, he suddenly passed away from a tragic motorbike accident, but his legacy lives on through his wife and these children today. Sabina teaches some of the kids at a neighbourhood school during the day, and Santos takes care of the household after he comes home from university every day where he is studying physics. Santos is my age. My back ached from sitting and reading for two hours with the kids, and can't even imagine having two full-time jobs like Sabina and Santos.
It is Christmas soon, and although the children don't celebrate they are excited because they know it's a big deal. I thought all day yesterday about what I'm going to do for them, and finally came up with something. I told them about the concept of Secret Santa, but instead of giving a gift to your secret recipient, they are to write a warm fuzzy saying three things they like about that person. I figure that's what Christmas is about, making eachother feel good. I'm going to develop a photo of each of them and give it to them in a frame. But of course it will be brought by Santa on a sleigh, and they'd get a lump of coal if they don't behave. I think I've scared them enough into submission and restless anticipation of their gift. I'll probably also get a crapload of candy, i know i know, they can't go to a dentist if their teeth spoil, but only once a year right?!
On my front, I think I mentioned last week that I was affected with a quite terrible bout of stomach sickness. And it lasted just up until yesterday. I didn't eat for three full days, and that's pretty major for me.. On Saturday I woke up at 6 to take a bus to Pokhara, which took more than 8 hours over the bumpiest roads I've ever met. It was quite an experience, going through narrow roads that wind through the mountains constantly in fear of flying off the ledge or meeting an unexpected oncoming bus head on. I stayed Saturday night in Lakeside, Pokhara which is the big tourist trap by a scenic lake with a gorgeous view of the Annapurna ranges. Unfortunately for me the past few days have been cloudy and the skies quite devoid of a mountainous backdrop. Now I'm closer to the main city, away from tourists, where I think I actually blend into the locals if I keep my mouth shut.
Oh as the title suggests, I've been eating nothing but Dhal Bhat, for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Its quite tasty, but then again it's only been a day.
On the Visa front, my only option is to fly to Singapore to get one. which is RIDICULOUS. the flight there costs an arm and a leg, added to the fact that I have to leave Nepal earlier than planned, I'm so bummed! I had to cut the stay at the orphange and am hopefully still doing a short 4-5 day trek before I fly out on the 11th of Jan, cutting a full two weeks from my trip. :(
I'll update again once I have the individual portraits of the kids. For now, here are some pics.
Lakeside
quite pensive, huh
my much more modest digs. its a wooden crate, actually.
study time
his name is Bikal, but I call him Pickle, and he doesn't know any different, hehe
getting ready for school
the beautiful sight from the roof this morning. only a fleeting 10 minutes as the clouds promptly covered its face again
xo
They come up to me and touch my cheeks saying "red like apple!" Its funny that when I first got to Kathmandu I was still shaking off my fish belly white from the Canadian winter and walking down the street, I'd be met with stares and whispers of locals saying, "Japonaise.." But after a couple days in the afternoon sun my face is now burnt to a crisp (nose is still peeling happily), and I started getting so many comments that I looked Nepali, like the Sherpa people of the mountains. hah! unfortunately I still can't get a deal at the market.
The children are so blissfully happy. I can't tell you how many times they've embraced me, held my hand with affectionate urgency, proudly showed me a particular piece of artwork, and said, "Jenny Didi, I'm SOOoooo happy you come here today! You come back again?"
I started thinking about the transient experience of their childhood. So many volunteers coming in and out of their daily lives. It can't be good for them. They fondly tell me about Jasmine Didi two weeks ago, and how she is also from Canada, "Jenny Didi do you know Jas Didi? You are her sister? You and Jas Didi come back again ok?" It pains me as I put a carefully handwritten note into my pocket, promising to deliver the invitation to return to Jas Didi in Vancouver.
I couldn't help thinking that these opportunities for foreigners to come into this land, to laugh and play with these children, are of more benefit to us than them. I know I made them giggle out of control when I lifted them high and whizzed them through the air like flying superhumans, but I couldn't help feeling self serving, learning so much more about myself in this process than I ever dreamed. In two weeks time I will be gone, but they will still rise daily at 6.30, eat their breakfast of wheat paste, check over their notes before class, and walk down to the school holding hands.
Sabina, the president of the Chetan Children's Centre, and Santos, her nephew and treasurer of the organization are an inspiration. Sabina's husband started the orphanage five years ago after visiting a village where he fell in love with the kids. Two years ago, he suddenly passed away from a tragic motorbike accident, but his legacy lives on through his wife and these children today. Sabina teaches some of the kids at a neighbourhood school during the day, and Santos takes care of the household after he comes home from university every day where he is studying physics. Santos is my age. My back ached from sitting and reading for two hours with the kids, and can't even imagine having two full-time jobs like Sabina and Santos.
It is Christmas soon, and although the children don't celebrate they are excited because they know it's a big deal. I thought all day yesterday about what I'm going to do for them, and finally came up with something. I told them about the concept of Secret Santa, but instead of giving a gift to your secret recipient, they are to write a warm fuzzy saying three things they like about that person. I figure that's what Christmas is about, making eachother feel good. I'm going to develop a photo of each of them and give it to them in a frame. But of course it will be brought by Santa on a sleigh, and they'd get a lump of coal if they don't behave. I think I've scared them enough into submission and restless anticipation of their gift. I'll probably also get a crapload of candy, i know i know, they can't go to a dentist if their teeth spoil, but only once a year right?!
On my front, I think I mentioned last week that I was affected with a quite terrible bout of stomach sickness. And it lasted just up until yesterday. I didn't eat for three full days, and that's pretty major for me.. On Saturday I woke up at 6 to take a bus to Pokhara, which took more than 8 hours over the bumpiest roads I've ever met. It was quite an experience, going through narrow roads that wind through the mountains constantly in fear of flying off the ledge or meeting an unexpected oncoming bus head on. I stayed Saturday night in Lakeside, Pokhara which is the big tourist trap by a scenic lake with a gorgeous view of the Annapurna ranges. Unfortunately for me the past few days have been cloudy and the skies quite devoid of a mountainous backdrop. Now I'm closer to the main city, away from tourists, where I think I actually blend into the locals if I keep my mouth shut.
Oh as the title suggests, I've been eating nothing but Dhal Bhat, for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Its quite tasty, but then again it's only been a day.
On the Visa front, my only option is to fly to Singapore to get one. which is RIDICULOUS. the flight there costs an arm and a leg, added to the fact that I have to leave Nepal earlier than planned, I'm so bummed! I had to cut the stay at the orphange and am hopefully still doing a short 4-5 day trek before I fly out on the 11th of Jan, cutting a full two weeks from my trip. :(
I'll update again once I have the individual portraits of the kids. For now, here are some pics.
Lakeside
quite pensive, huh
my much more modest digs. its a wooden crate, actually.
study time
his name is Bikal, but I call him Pickle, and he doesn't know any different, hehe
getting ready for school
the beautiful sight from the roof this morning. only a fleeting 10 minutes as the clouds promptly covered its face again
xo
12.18.2008
sore ass and other ailments
so i am infamous for tripping, falling, prostrating before pavement, throwing ice cream onto my hair instead of into my mouth, and the list goes on. Apparently high altitude does not cure me of this predicament. I can now proudly show off a violet bruise on my right ass cheek from a similar episode today. Now I can add this to my list of ailments when trying to sleep tonight!
oh and as if sniffling and coughing since I got here from the biting cold at night wasn't enough, I fell ill today as well! they say it is better to get sick in the beginning of your trip rather than later, and i guess this is a blessing? in a fkng rosy diguise?? im not sure what i ate, but i was nauseous all day and then after suffering for hours finally chucked up last nights dinner. mmm yummy
lol
oh and there's also been an issue on the Visa front. They will not issue me a visa because i used to be chinese and now am canadian. say what? I was born in China, and they won't let me in the country?? trying to get that sorted out but for now my trip to pokhara has been delayed by a day until Sat morning.
im sure it will work out as roadblocks like this were bound to have occured. will update as events progress!
oh and as if sniffling and coughing since I got here from the biting cold at night wasn't enough, I fell ill today as well! they say it is better to get sick in the beginning of your trip rather than later, and i guess this is a blessing? in a fkng rosy diguise?? im not sure what i ate, but i was nauseous all day and then after suffering for hours finally chucked up last nights dinner. mmm yummy
lol
oh and there's also been an issue on the Visa front. They will not issue me a visa because i used to be chinese and now am canadian. say what? I was born in China, and they won't let me in the country?? trying to get that sorted out but for now my trip to pokhara has been delayed by a day until Sat morning.
im sure it will work out as roadblocks like this were bound to have occured. will update as events progress!
12.16.2008
Have you eaten?
"Khana khannubhaiyo?"
This informal greeting in Nepali I've learned, used in the place of namaste, is much more suitable for me. Although it is a mouthful- pun intended! !- remember to ask me next time you see me, and bring food.
Fourth day in Kathmandu. The city breathes such life in the daytime. It is a syncophany of sights, sounds and smells. In the back of your throat you dwell in constant tensity and fear, of having your feet run over by a rickshaw or worse, a tourist bus. The minute you lose focus and agility when maneuvering the cobbled pathways, you are jolted to life by the staccato honk of a car literally a hair's length away from you. These are the sounds of Kathmandu. A symphony of cars honking, dogs howling, children playing, and a whole load of random ruckus. It's consistent about waking me up every morning at 8, but thankfully the city rests early.
view from the roof:
It's winter here and its sunny all the time, with the temperature rising to the low 20s in the afternoons. But before you tie your knickers in a knot of jealousy, let me tell you about the disparity in temperature from afternoon to night. It gets as low as 5 celcius, and you say what is that eh compared to Canada. But I never realized how much I took central heating for granted. There is no AC or heating in most homes here and it gets so miserable climbing into bed that I feel like cutting a limb off to get some blood flow. Yes i think about these things. In the unfortunate light of not having a sharp object on hand, I resort to wearing more clothes to bed than i do during the day. Longsleeved shirt, t-shirt, fleece sweatshirt, sweatpants, fluffy socks (shoutouts to rajnee) wool hat, down parka of the playboy label courtesy of mum (lolz!). This is more clothes than I've ever worn in my life! lolz
But I did get a tan on my face yesterday from sitting on the hotel roof all morning for my Nepali lessons. I'm actually picking up some of the language and it's only been two classes. I can't wait to learn it over the next month. I say Dhaniyabhat a lot, which means thankyou. Mero nam Jenny ho, means my name is Jenny. not what you're thinking you jerks. Pheri petaula means hope to see you again soon! Add -ji to the end of a name to indicate endearment. and Maile bhujina means I don't understand, something I use quite often.
Our teach is supa cool and nice. A very beautiful Nepali girl named Youzina. She talked to us about the culture in Nepal quite a lot too. Society here works on a caste system just like in India. We talked about how people were first divided into the different castes because it was thought that society would function more efficiently if certain people just filled certain professions. Sadly, efficient would not be the proper word to describe the country today. The people of the lowest castes are not granted the same freedoms and opportunities to education that others are. That makes it hard for them to rise above the toils of manual labour, and avoid subtle undertones of descrimination. There's also not much chance of change to come because the lowest classes, ones who have the most to gain from the elimination of the caste system, do not hold the decision making power in office. But this is a controversial and sensitive issue, so the ignorant foreigner shall not digress any further.
We've gone sightseeing quite a bit around Kathmandu as well. The city is famous for its beautiful temples, with the largest Hindu temple in the world! And theres so many monkeys! Heaps and heaps of them! Aggressive monkeys who steal little children's potato chips and point and laugh while the devouring the bags whole! I asked our guide why so many monkeys in the temples and he said, maybe even monkeys want to be near God. good answer.
I have finally been placed in my orphanage! It is in Pokhara, about 6 hours by perilously bumpy bus ride from Kathmandu. It is one of the most beautiful places in Nepal, with the picture perfect mountain and lake scenes that is the stuff of postcard dreams. I AM SO EXCITED. There are only 6 kids in my orphange, and I CANT WAIT TO CORRUPT THEM ALL. um. what? i said make a positive impact in their lives. It is a bit out of the city centre, and another volunteer who was there earlier this month told me that the people there were some of the most happy people he had ever met. They were just genuinely appreciative of waking every day, and any little thing, inconsequential to us, would make them smile for hours on end. I asked in my ignorant way, so what do they do for money? They don't, he said, they just live off the land. I remember being completely taken aback. We really are in such a hyperbubble. What? the Ivey grad says, people don't worry and strife about an ibanking internship in today's economic condition?? What of the value of their portfolio??!? They work hard, sow, plow, harvest, live, and love their families, which means everything to them. There's nothing that you can't rejoice when you are a villager in Nepal. We all have something to learn from these people and I can't wait to head over and soak it all up.
This has been quite the rambling diatribe, and I shall stop soon, but not before telling you the exciting news that I'm booking a trek tomorrow! The last couple of weeks in Nepal will be spent doing the highlights of the Annapurna trek ( most breathtaking views of the Himalaya) with my own guide followed by a side trip into the Jungle safaris of Chitwan on the back of an elephant! Also, Pokhara is the capital of paragliding, and i'm going to live there for three weeks!!! jealous yet, cus it doesn't end there! Nepal is also the capital of bungee jumping with 180 feet jump and I will also attempt that one of these weekends!!!
ok my head is starting to hurt, i've been on the computer way too long, and we came back from an authentic Nepali welcome dinner at this fancy restaurant where there was traditional music and dancing and AMAZING curries, DHAL BHAT (national dish of lentils and rice which I will apparantly become very comfortable with, cus that's ALL i'm getting in the village) and RUXY. lol which is their national drink. the Nepali version of the Chinese Mao Tai. At 60% alcohol we were doing shot for shot tonight, and I was up to about 10 or 11. Had to explain where I got my Irish from, and again, just blame it all on popa gao. lolz. crazy nuclear physicists get away with everything. as do their offspring.
ok Jenny-ji out.
my inbox is lonely. update me on your lives once in a while. i miss my friends!
pics from around Kathmandu valley:
teeheeee
buddha eyez r watching u
view from buddhist temple
eating rice!
cute kid. yummy. what?
the flags are a buddhist symbol of harmony between the elements; fire wind earth water, and one other i forget
monkey flood!!! spot the baby under its mommy
smoke from cremation at Hindu temple
just a bull, chilling on the road
Nepali dancer during our dinner tonight
xo
This informal greeting in Nepali I've learned, used in the place of namaste, is much more suitable for me. Although it is a mouthful- pun intended! !- remember to ask me next time you see me, and bring food.
Fourth day in Kathmandu. The city breathes such life in the daytime. It is a syncophany of sights, sounds and smells. In the back of your throat you dwell in constant tensity and fear, of having your feet run over by a rickshaw or worse, a tourist bus. The minute you lose focus and agility when maneuvering the cobbled pathways, you are jolted to life by the staccato honk of a car literally a hair's length away from you. These are the sounds of Kathmandu. A symphony of cars honking, dogs howling, children playing, and a whole load of random ruckus. It's consistent about waking me up every morning at 8, but thankfully the city rests early.
view from the roof:
It's winter here and its sunny all the time, with the temperature rising to the low 20s in the afternoons. But before you tie your knickers in a knot of jealousy, let me tell you about the disparity in temperature from afternoon to night. It gets as low as 5 celcius, and you say what is that eh compared to Canada. But I never realized how much I took central heating for granted. There is no AC or heating in most homes here and it gets so miserable climbing into bed that I feel like cutting a limb off to get some blood flow. Yes i think about these things. In the unfortunate light of not having a sharp object on hand, I resort to wearing more clothes to bed than i do during the day. Longsleeved shirt, t-shirt, fleece sweatshirt, sweatpants, fluffy socks (shoutouts to rajnee) wool hat, down parka of the playboy label courtesy of mum (lolz!). This is more clothes than I've ever worn in my life! lolz
But I did get a tan on my face yesterday from sitting on the hotel roof all morning for my Nepali lessons. I'm actually picking up some of the language and it's only been two classes. I can't wait to learn it over the next month. I say Dhaniyabhat a lot, which means thankyou. Mero nam Jenny ho, means my name is Jenny. not what you're thinking you jerks. Pheri petaula means hope to see you again soon! Add -ji to the end of a name to indicate endearment. and Maile bhujina means I don't understand, something I use quite often.
Our teach is supa cool and nice. A very beautiful Nepali girl named Youzina. She talked to us about the culture in Nepal quite a lot too. Society here works on a caste system just like in India. We talked about how people were first divided into the different castes because it was thought that society would function more efficiently if certain people just filled certain professions. Sadly, efficient would not be the proper word to describe the country today. The people of the lowest castes are not granted the same freedoms and opportunities to education that others are. That makes it hard for them to rise above the toils of manual labour, and avoid subtle undertones of descrimination. There's also not much chance of change to come because the lowest classes, ones who have the most to gain from the elimination of the caste system, do not hold the decision making power in office. But this is a controversial and sensitive issue, so the ignorant foreigner shall not digress any further.
We've gone sightseeing quite a bit around Kathmandu as well. The city is famous for its beautiful temples, with the largest Hindu temple in the world! And theres so many monkeys! Heaps and heaps of them! Aggressive monkeys who steal little children's potato chips and point and laugh while the devouring the bags whole! I asked our guide why so many monkeys in the temples and he said, maybe even monkeys want to be near God. good answer.
I have finally been placed in my orphanage! It is in Pokhara, about 6 hours by perilously bumpy bus ride from Kathmandu. It is one of the most beautiful places in Nepal, with the picture perfect mountain and lake scenes that is the stuff of postcard dreams. I AM SO EXCITED. There are only 6 kids in my orphange, and I CANT WAIT TO CORRUPT THEM ALL. um. what? i said make a positive impact in their lives. It is a bit out of the city centre, and another volunteer who was there earlier this month told me that the people there were some of the most happy people he had ever met. They were just genuinely appreciative of waking every day, and any little thing, inconsequential to us, would make them smile for hours on end. I asked in my ignorant way, so what do they do for money? They don't, he said, they just live off the land. I remember being completely taken aback. We really are in such a hyperbubble. What? the Ivey grad says, people don't worry and strife about an ibanking internship in today's economic condition?? What of the value of their portfolio??!? They work hard, sow, plow, harvest, live, and love their families, which means everything to them. There's nothing that you can't rejoice when you are a villager in Nepal. We all have something to learn from these people and I can't wait to head over and soak it all up.
This has been quite the rambling diatribe, and I shall stop soon, but not before telling you the exciting news that I'm booking a trek tomorrow! The last couple of weeks in Nepal will be spent doing the highlights of the Annapurna trek ( most breathtaking views of the Himalaya) with my own guide followed by a side trip into the Jungle safaris of Chitwan on the back of an elephant! Also, Pokhara is the capital of paragliding, and i'm going to live there for three weeks!!! jealous yet, cus it doesn't end there! Nepal is also the capital of bungee jumping with 180 feet jump and I will also attempt that one of these weekends!!!
ok my head is starting to hurt, i've been on the computer way too long, and we came back from an authentic Nepali welcome dinner at this fancy restaurant where there was traditional music and dancing and AMAZING curries, DHAL BHAT (national dish of lentils and rice which I will apparantly become very comfortable with, cus that's ALL i'm getting in the village) and RUXY. lol which is their national drink. the Nepali version of the Chinese Mao Tai. At 60% alcohol we were doing shot for shot tonight, and I was up to about 10 or 11. Had to explain where I got my Irish from, and again, just blame it all on popa gao. lolz. crazy nuclear physicists get away with everything. as do their offspring.
ok Jenny-ji out.
my inbox is lonely. update me on your lives once in a while. i miss my friends!
pics from around Kathmandu valley:
teeheeee
buddha eyez r watching u
view from buddhist temple
eating rice!
cute kid. yummy. what?
the flags are a buddhist symbol of harmony between the elements; fire wind earth water, and one other i forget
monkey flood!!! spot the baby under its mommy
smoke from cremation at Hindu temple
just a bull, chilling on the road
Nepali dancer during our dinner tonight
xo
12.14.2008
Namaste!
It's a beautiful Sunday in Kathmandu. The sensory overload I've experienced so far has blown my mind to pieces. Words can't really do it justice.
I was so relieved yesterday walking out of the airport to see a smiling face holding a sign with my name on it. I was terrified that I'd step into this strange land left to fend for myself. New friend Raj brought me back to the Kathmandu Peace Guest House where I will be staying for a week while the volunteers get language and culture training. Check out the view from the plane ride over and my modest digs.
my trusty Toms accompanying me on this journey. Check out the website, for every shoe you buy they give a free pair to children who are in need!
I met Bijen, who I've been communicating with before arriving. He and his brother started Hope & Home after being involved in several other not-for-profits like this and have since done an amazing job of integrating international volunteers into the Nepalese culture. He also designs websites for local businesses and is doing his MBA at Pokarah University in the evenings. What? Now that's responsibility
I have had so much milk chai i think im 30% made of the stuff. I slept all day yesterday. And continued to sleep all night last night. Woke up this morning feeling trigger happy and went outside with my camera in hand. and just walked. for 3 hours!
Here's some of the pictures.
ok lets just stop for a minute here. is this kid even 5?!?!?!?
Lolz almost forgot, I participated in an interesting exchange earlier. I went to buy soap at this little stand and gave the guy 15 rupees for a bar that cost 13. He rummaged around for change and then handed me two coughdrops saying, "I dont have two rupees, here, have some Halls. Good for you!"
I was so relieved yesterday walking out of the airport to see a smiling face holding a sign with my name on it. I was terrified that I'd step into this strange land left to fend for myself. New friend Raj brought me back to the Kathmandu Peace Guest House where I will be staying for a week while the volunteers get language and culture training. Check out the view from the plane ride over and my modest digs.
my trusty Toms accompanying me on this journey. Check out the website, for every shoe you buy they give a free pair to children who are in need!
I met Bijen, who I've been communicating with before arriving. He and his brother started Hope & Home after being involved in several other not-for-profits like this and have since done an amazing job of integrating international volunteers into the Nepalese culture. He also designs websites for local businesses and is doing his MBA at Pokarah University in the evenings. What? Now that's responsibility
I have had so much milk chai i think im 30% made of the stuff. I slept all day yesterday. And continued to sleep all night last night. Woke up this morning feeling trigger happy and went outside with my camera in hand. and just walked. for 3 hours!
Here's some of the pictures.
ok lets just stop for a minute here. is this kid even 5?!?!?!?
Lolz almost forgot, I participated in an interesting exchange earlier. I went to buy soap at this little stand and gave the guy 15 rupees for a bar that cost 13. He rummaged around for change and then handed me two coughdrops saying, "I dont have two rupees, here, have some Halls. Good for you!"
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